Removing the factory tint from your car windows can be quite a task. Tint film is composed of two layers. When pulled, the top layer may come off without too much trouble but leave the second layer behind. The most effective system includes pulling both layers together. If done incorrectly, you may spend hours scraping off the stuck pieces of tint. With the proper steps, you can remove the factory tint yourself and save the money a professional would charge to do the job for you.
Remove any obstructions from the window, such as the rear brake light.
2Spray the outside of the window with water and then cover it with plastic. Cut away excess plastic so that the tarp is roughly the shape of the window.
3Lay a tarp across the rear deck and seats. Cover the front dashboard with plastic. Spray the inside of the window with pure ammonia. You may want to wear a face mask. Ammonia is very strong.
4Cover the ammonia-soaked window with plastic and secure the plastic with tape.
5Park the car in a sunny area. Leave the car for one hour.
6Peel the tint off the window. Remove the plastic from the corner of the window. Leave as much the window covered as possible so the ammonia does not evaporate.
7Spray the corner again with ammonia. Use a razor to pull away the corner of the tint. Be careful not to cut through any defroster lines or antennas. Once the corner rises, grab the loose piece with both hands and pull it away from the window. Pull slowly and with consistent pressure; the goal is to pull the film off in one piece. You will pull the plastic off as the tint pulls away from the window. If necessary, spray ammonia as you pull. If the tint film breaks, spray ammonia and use the razor to restart it.
8Scrub off the adhesive residue stuck to the window once the film comes off. Spray the window glass again with ammonia. Use a fine steel wool pad to scrub off the adhesive.
9Spray the window with window cleaner and wipe it down with paper towels or newspaper.
Spray the window down with warm, soapy water. Let soak for two or three minutes.
11Use a razor blade in a holder and cut an opening in the tint.
12Slide the blade under the tint at the opening you cut. Pull enough of the tint film away so you can grasp it with your hands.
13Pull the film, using both hands, away from the window. Remove the film in segments until the window is clear.
14Spray the window down again with warm, soapy water. Scrape away any adhesive residue. Clean the window with spray cleaner and paper towels.
The Toyota Tundra utilizes brake discs, also known as rotors, in combination with a caliper and brake pad assembly to bring your vehicle to a stop. If the rotors get warped or worn down, it can cause your Tundra to shudder and pulse when you hit the brakes. Its fairly easy to swap the rotors yourself and keep some extra money in your pocket.
Jack up your Toyota Tundra. Block the wheels that you arent working on to keep your Tundra from rolling while you work. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the first tire and wheel assembly.
2Remove the brake hose from the caliper and then quickly plug the end of the hose to prevent spillage. Next, remove the two caliper mounting bolts. This allows you to then pull the caliper assembly off of the old rotor.
3Clean the area around the hub with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or corrosion. Install the new rotor onto the hub.
4Lubricate the caliper slides and bolts with lithium grease and then install the caliper and tighten the bolts. Torque the caliper bolts to 90 ft. lbs. (123 Nm).
5Reconnect the brake hose to the caliper and torque to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). Refill the brake fluid and then bleed the brakes. Install the wheel assembly and tire.
6Repeat this process for each additional rotor. When youre finished, lower your vehicle, double check the brake fluid level and reconnect the negative battery cable.
7Pump the brakes until you get a firm pedal and then be sure to road test your Toyota Tundra to make sure that the installation was successful.
The 2001 Ford Expedition came equipped with a four-wheel-disc brake system and four-wheel ABS. Inspecting the overall condition of the brake system regularly will allow you to identify worn brake-system components before they become a safety concern. Replacing the disc brake pads yourself, when they become worn, is a good way to keep your vehicle repair costs down while maintaining the safety of your Expedition. This repair can be completed in about an hour using basic hand tools.
Apply the parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels slightly using the lug wrench. Raise and support the front wheels using the floor jack and jack stands. Remove the front wheels.
2Place a drain pan under the brake assembly. Clean the front brakes, with brake-parts cleaner, to remove the accumulated brake dust. Avoid breathing the dust from the brake system and vapors from the parts cleaner.
3Remove the two 13 mm caliper-mounting bolts that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket on the brake system of the Expedition. Lift the caliper off the caliper bracket and brake pads.
4Apply a thin coat of anti-squeal compound to the back of the brake pads. Allow the compound to dry while you prepare the caliper bracket for installation.
5Slide the pads, one at a time, out of the caliper bracket. Apply a dab of silicon brake grease to the contact points on the anti-rattle clips attached to the caliper bracket. Slide the new pads into place on the caliper bracket.
6Open the bleeder screw on top of the caliper. Slip an old brake pad onto the caliper pistons and use the C-clamps to push the caliper pistons into the caliper housing. Use one C-clamp over each piston, two clamps in total, to push the pistons evenly into the caliper. Close the bleeder screw while the C-clamps hold pressure on the pistons. Remove the C-clamps and clean the caliper with brake-parts cleaner to remove the brake fluid that has spilled out.
7Slip the caliper over the brake pads onto the caliper bracket. Bolt the caliper to the bracket. Install the wheel and lower the Expedition to the ground. Pump the brake pedal several times to expand the caliper before driving the SUV.
Dealing with cracks and chips to your car windshield is crucial to ensure the safety of yourself and others traveling in your car. Cracks are often caused by rocks, pebbles and other debris on the road bouncing off the windshield. In most cases the damage is insignificant, but repair must be carried out as soon as possible to stop the crack weakening the entire structural system of the windshield, which can lead to more serious damage.
Leave the crack alone until you have the time and the necessary tools to attempt a repair. Modern car windows normally have a laminated plastic coating, which means that while parts of the windshield may shatter or suffer damage, underlying glass layers wont explode just because of a small crack or chip. There is enough strength in the windshield for it to stay intact long enough for you to take the car to a garage or auto repair shop.
2Apply clear adhesive tape to the crack if it is more substantial; keep a roll in your glove compartment for quick and easy access. Use a wide roll so that any tiny, loose glass fragments are kept intact and to provide adequate preservation of the glass layers and laminate coating. Dont go overboard with the tape though, as you dont want it to restrict your view when driving.
3Park your car on a level surface when you are ready to repair the crack.
4Clean the windshield with soapy water, ensuring you remove all debris from the crack using the motorized rotary tool in your repair kit. You can use the tool to widen the crack slightly as this will make it easier to apply the resin.
5Attach the repair stickers to the inside of the cracked windshield. Applied correctly, the sticker should cover as large a section of the cracked windshield as possible.
6Inject the resin into the crack using the pump or syringe included in the repair kit. Avoid air bubbles by maintaining an even flow of resin. The resin must make contact with the inside surfaces of the windshield.
7Attach the remaining stickers over the resin and leave it to cure for a minimum of four hours to give it time to set into the windshield. When you remove the stickers inspect the spot closely to make sure the resin has completely cured.
8Take your car to a qualified professional if you dont feel confident getting rid of the crack yourself. In severe cases, if the windshield shatters, the entire glass pane will have to be replaced.
Getting a chip in your windscreen can do more than just look ugly. A chip can very quickly develop into a large crack, allowing moisture into the layers of the windscreen, which would then have to be replaced. However, so long as the chip is smaller than a quarter, it is possible to repair the damage yourself. Windscreen (or windshield) repair kits are available in the automotive section of most major retailers.
Dry the windscreen completely. If it is raining or snowing, move the car into a garage to allow it to dry. You can use a hair dryer to hasten the process, but you must make sure there is no moisture inside the chip. If there is, it will get sealed in and cause the windscreen to fog.
2Clean the damaged area with acetone and a paper towel. Acetone will evaporate quickly, but dont use so much that it soaks into the chip.
3Peel the backing film off the repair kits adhesive strip and press the strip onto the windscreen, centered over the chip. Rub it with your fingernail to make sure it has a very strong bond. Once it is secure, peel off the front piece of film, leaving only the adhesive strip.
4Stick the plastic adapter onto the adhesive strip, centered over the chip. Make sure it is secured by rubbing it with your fingernail.
5Turn the syringe of adhesive up (with the plunger pointed at the floor) and remove the cap. Pull the plunger back slightly to prevent material from spilling out of the tip.
6Attach the tip of the syringe to the plastic adapter.
7Pull the plunger all the way back with the syringe attached to the adapter. This will create a vacuum, pulling all air out of the chip. Hold the plunger this way for a full minute, allowing the air from the chip to bubble up through the adhesive. The adhesive will settle down at the tip of the plunger.
8Let go of the plunger handle once all of the air has bubbled through the adhesive. The vacuum will force adhesive into the chip.
9Repeat the pullback and release action four or five times to fully impregnate the chip with adhesive.
10Remove the syringe, plastic adapter and adhesive strip from the windscreen.
11Wipe off excess adhesive from the windscreen with acetone on a paper towel, but be sure to leave a bump over the chip.
12Allow the adhesive to cure for several hours.
13Use a sharp razor blade to slice the adhesive bump off the windscreen, completing the repair.
Honda introduced quality mid-size vehicles in 1976. In the mid-1990s, the Accord was considered among the most reliable vehicles on the road. By 1996, it was one of Japans best selling cars. The 1996 Honda Accord is known for its compactness and its safe and reliable features that require little maintenance. Because there is nothing complicated about the Accord, replacing any parts, such as a damaged windshield, can be corrected with a few do-it-yourself tools. If the windshield is damaged beyond repair, contact a Honda manufacturer for replacement glass.
Contact a Honda manufacturer in your area to order a replacement windshield that fits the 1996 Accord vehicle specifications.
2Put on safety glasses and utility gloves before handling hazardous glass and chemicals.
3Cut the windows inside molding adhesive with a windshield knife. Make the cut at a slow and steady pace around the perimeter of the adhesive.
4From inside the vehicle, place pressure on the windshield. Slowly, push on the glass with both hands to dislodge it from its seal. Ask an assistant to stand on the outside of the Accord so he can catch the glass as it falls from the seal.
5Clean the threshold with mild soap; wipe away any sticky adhesive residue left from the weather stripping before replacing it with new glass.
6Add urethane caulk to a caulk gun as directed on product label. From inside the Accord, bead a thick layer of urethane caulk on the inside of the windshield frame. Once again, have an assistant help set the windshield inside the threshold. Place your body weight pressure on the replacement glass for a few moments to allow the caulk to create an airtight seal.
7Let the urethane caulk set for 24 to 48 hours.
The 1995 Buick Regal was produced as a Custom Coupe and a Gran Sport sedan. It was equipped with the choice of a 3.1-liter V-6 or a 3.8-liter V-6. The 1995 Regal came standard with four wheel anti-lock disc brakes, including ventilated front discs. The rear disc brakes on the 1995 Regal have calipers, pads, and rotors similar to the front disc brakes.
Remove the initial torque from the rear wheel lug nuts, using a tire iron. Do not remove the lug nuts completely, but turn them so they are unstuck (3/4 turn). Lift the rear of the Buick using a 2-ton jack or a jack with greater capacity. Set jack stands beneath the rear suspension arms or the rear axle beam, just inside the rear wheel assembly. Remove the lug nuts completely with a tire iron, then remove both rear wheels from the Regal.
2Remove the rear caliper mounting bolts on one side of the Regal. Use a 3/8-inch ratchet to turn the caliper bolts counterclockwise until they are removed. Remove the caliper from the brake assembly, using a pry bar to gently pry the caliper off. Set the caliper on the suspension arm behind the brake assembly. Do not let the caliper hang freely or you can damage the fragile rubber brake hose.
3Remove the old brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket, using a pry bar to gently pry the pads off if necessary. Lubricate the portion of the caliper mounting bracket that touches the brake pads. This is the part of the mounting bracket that the tips of the brake pads slide into. Proper lubrication is essential in reinstalling the brakes, to ensure optimal performance and function of the new pads. Use caliper grease that is rated for disc brakes.
4Install the new brake pads onto the caliper mounting bracket. Two of the brake pads have wear indicators. These pads go on the inside of the caliper bracket, behind the rotor. Do not place both pads with wear indicators on one side of the Regal. The wear indicators are small metal tongues on the end of the pads that have a 90-degree bend in them, and are the reason for the "squealing" noise when pads get low. Install the wear indicator-equipped pad behind the rotor, and the non-wear indicator pad on the front or outside of the caliper bracket.
5Lubricate the backing plates or shim plates on the back side of both of the newly installed brake pads. Failure to lubricate the back of the pads can cause squeaking in the new brakes within a couple hours of installation and driving. Dab caliper grease on the back side of the pads to create a thin film on the pads.
6Install a 6-inch extension onto a 3/8-inch drive ratchet. On the opposite end of the extension install a caliper brake tool. The caliper brake tool is a 6-sided cube that has different adapter teeth on each side for use on multiple different vehicles. The rear calipers of the Regal have oscillating or rotating pistons. As the piston expands when you hit the brake pedal, it also rotates in a screw-like motion. The brake tool is essential in working on the rear brakes of many vehicles, as there are many vehicles with rotating rear caliper pistons.
7Insert the caliper tool onto the piston of the rear brake caliper. Hold the caliper in one hand, while holding the ratchet, extension, and tool in your other hand. Turn the ratchet clockwise while simultaneously applying pressure to the piston on the rear caliper. This turning and pushing movement will compress the rear caliper piston. Compress the piston until it is nearly flush with the inside back wall of the caliper. The piston does not compress completely flush.
8Install the compressed rear rotor back onto the Regal with one hand. Start the caliper mounting bolts through the caliper and into the mounting bracket, by hand. Turn the bolts clockwise to start them until the caliper can stand freely without you holding it. Tighten the caliper bolts to between 60 and 80 foot-pounds of torque. You can approximate this without using a torque wrench by snugging the bolts with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket, then turn the ratchet 1/2-turn farther once the bolts are snug -- but using a torque wrench is best.
9Repeat Steps 2 through 8 to complete the second side of the rear pads on the Regal. Performing this project on one side of the vehicle at a time will provide a visual reference for how the brakes look when they are assembled. This is useful if you have any questions about how the brakes go back together.
10Install the rear wheels on the Regal after you have installed and torqued both rear brake calipers on the vehicle. Snug the lug nuts onto the wheel studs, using a tire iron. Lift the rear of the Regal off of the jack stands, and remove the jack stands from beneath the Regal. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts between 90 and 110 foot-pounds of torque. Use a certified torque wrench and lug nut socket to properly torque the wheel nuts.
The rear drivers side windows on your vehicle may occasionally become stuck in either the closed or open position. The usual causes of this malfunction include the untimely failure of the window regulator or window motor. The window can also fall off or become stuck on its track if the glue holding the window to the track fails or if the track is obstructed by debris. Diagnosing and repairing this problem necessitates the removal of the interior door panel and trim.
Turn the ignition key to the "On" position and attempt to operate the rear drivers side power windows. If you can hear the motor operating but the window wont move up or down, the window may be stuck on its track. If you cant hear the motor operating, the motor may need replacement. Check the fuses for the power windows before attempting to remove the window motor.
2Disconnect the negative terminal cable from the battery with a wrench. This will decrease the likelihood of shock and prevent the battery from being drained.
3Open the rear drivers side door. Remove the interior door panel and trim. The method for removing the panel and trim will vary depending on the vehicle. Consult your vehicles service manual and be sure to keep track of all clips and screws.
4Inspect the windows track for signs of obstruction. You may need to apply a liberal amount of lithium grease to the track. If the window is off-track, clean the window of all adhesive and apply urethane-based glue to the windows mounting point. Reattach the window to the mounting point and leave the window undisturbed in the up position for one to two days.
5Inspect the window regulator and motor. The window regulator will need to be replaced if the cables are snapped or frayed. If the window motor does not work, it will also need to be removed. Methods for removing both components may vary depending on the vehicle.
6Reattach the door panel and trim to the rear drivers side door when finished. Close the door and reattach the negative terminal cable to the battery.
It happens frequently; a stone kicks up on the highway and damages the windshield. Sometimes it makes a small chip, while other times it can leave a long crack. No matter which type of damage your windshield incurs, a repair or replacement is in order. The trick is knowing which one.
Get your vehicle safely stopped before assessing the damage. You put yourself and other drivers in danger by being distracted while driving down the highway. Get to a safe location well off the road before inspecting your windshield.
2Assess the type of damage. If you have a stone chip, see if the hole goes all the way through the glass. If you have a hole that breaches both sides of the glass, your best and safest bet is to replace the windshield.
3Measure the stone chip if the hole only affects the outside of the windshield. If the divot is 1/2 inch or less across, you can usually repair the windshield with resin.
4Observe cracks for type. Spider-webbed cracks that resemble a stick with one or more branches are ineligible for repair. You must replace the windshield. If you have a single, relatively straight crack, there is a chance you can repair it provided the crack is no more than 6 inches long.
